When José Luis Calfucura recalls childhood trips to the ancestral Mapuche heartland of La Araucanía, a lush landscape of emerald lakes and smoking volcanoes in south-central Chile, his memories often include purple teeth.
"The adults would tell us kids to go get maquis just so they could laugh at the results," he says. "After we ate them, we'd end up with our faces all painted purple."
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